Sake identity
Geographical distribution
The introduction of foreign alcoholic drinks in the 20th century and the global decline in daily beverage alcohol consumption has led to a sizeable drop in Japanese sake production. Output has been slashed by four in fifty years and the number of producers by six in less than a century. Despite this, 95% of Japan’s 4.6-million-hectolitre production of sake worth 434 billion yen (in 2018, equating to around 3.4 billion euros) were still drunk locally in 2019.
The share of exports has risen from 1% to 5% in 15 years and whilst the proportion remains fairly low, it is growing rapidly. Exports have become a high-potential outlet for sake and targeted around fifty countries in 2020, primarily in Asia, then in America and finally in Europe. Three-quarters of export volumes are bound for five long-standing destinations including the USA, China and Korea, but Europe is rapidly bringing up the rear and showing fast growth.
In a bid to reach out to a new consumer audience – younger and more female – producers are constantly pushing the envelope and introducing new products like low-alcohol or sparkling sake, prompting renewed interest in the category.
(Data sources: Finance Ministry; Agriculture Ministry and Japanese Customs).
Aromas and flavours
Sake embraces an extensive aromatic spectrum, running the gamut from fruits, flowers, spices and undergrowth to fermentation aromas that are less familiar to Western consumers, such as soy sauce and daikon. The significance of the nose aromas and their balance with the palate varies considerably from one category of sake to another. The categories are divided into eight official designations, each one representing a different style whose variety can run from fresh, light and subtle to complex, rich and profound.
On the palate, flavours and textures revolve around acidity – which is less pronounced than in wine yet nonetheless plays a crucial role – sugar, sourness and umami, which acts as a flavour enhancer. Palate dynamics also focus significantly on the expression of these flavours.
Characteristics
The two main ingredients are water and rice. The influence of terroir stems primarily from the quality of the local water and the human factor as epitomised by local expertise. The rice can be produced locally or come from other regions and over one hundred varieties of sake-quality rice can be used. For some types of sake, cheaper food-grade rice can also be used.
There are no appellations but the significance of regional styles should not be underestimated. Recently, a system of geographical indications has started to gain currency for some origins.
The share of exports has risen from 1% to 5% in 15 years and whilst the proportion remains fairly low, it is growing rapidly. Exports have become a high-potential outlet for sake and targeted around fifty countries in 2020, primarily in Asia, then in America and finally in Europe. Three-quarters of export volumes are bound for five long-standing destinations including the USA, China and Korea, but Europe is rapidly bringing up the rear and showing fast growth.
Versatility
Sake can be enjoyed in a huge variety of ways. As a nod to the wine world, it can be savoured in stemware, particularly for the most aromatic sakes. Traditionally, though, in Japan it is commonly drunk in vessels that come in a diverse array of shapes, sizes and materials – these can be ceramic, lacquered or unlacquered wood, cut glass, bamboo or metal for instance. Ceramic vessels extend the range of styles to include some categories of sake designed to be savoured hot or warm.
Pairings with Japanese cuisine are the obvious choice, but they do not exclude other types of foods and sake is a magnificent match for most Western cuisines. In addition to its intrinsic qualities, sake also acts as a flavour enhancer, chiselling out and showcasing the quality of the ingredients and recipes of our chefs.
Freshness v maturity
Sake embraces an extensive aromatic spectrum, running the gamut from fruits, flowers, spices and undergrowth to fermentation aromas that are less familiar to Western consumers, such as soy sauce and daikon. The significance of the nose aromas and their balance with the palate varies considerably from one category of sake to another. The categories are divided into eight official designations, each one representing a different style whose variety can run from fresh, light and subtle to complex, rich and profound.
There are some rare exceptions though when some sakes are deliberately matured for at least three years, or many more – sometimes from 5 to 20 years. These offerings are referred to as koshu (mature sake) or jukusei-shu (matured sake or age-worthy sake).